Saturday 24 January 2015

The Getty Villa

An antiquities museum

The J. Paul Getty Museum is to be found in two locations in Los Angeles.  The Getty Villa, which houses the antiquities museum, is situated in the community of Pacific Pallisades.  J. Paul Getty was an oil tycoon who built this museum in honour of the arts and cultures of Ancient Greece, Rome and Etruria. Completed in 1974, Getty, who passed away in 1976, never saw the Villa in its entirety. 

The museum combines architectural beauty - it is inspired by the Villa of the Papyri at Herculaneam - with an amazing wealth of artefacts.  The Getty Guide, on an iPod, is available to every visitor.  It shows a picture of what it is you are looking for and gives relevant information.

One is surrounded by so much grandeur that the word "museum" seems a misnomer.  At first one thinks that it is merely another theme park, but the Villa is so much more.  It is indeed a replica of a Roman villa such as ideally it might have looked.  The greatest attention has been given to almost every little detail - the floors, the ceilings, the candelabra, the columns and the gardens, inspired by examples from actual villas in Pompeii (covered by 4 to 6 metres of ash and pumice during the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD) and Herculaneam (covered in lava during the same event).

As one enters one encounters an open-air theatre.

A foyer with a dry water pan (drought in California)

Marble, imported from all over, was a sign of wealth.

The capitals of the columns are from different marbles.  Notice the intricate stuccowork patterns on the ceiling.

The inner garden (also without water)

The candelabra looks antique.  Here too the ceiling is intricately decorated.



































































































On visiting Pompeii on a previous occasion we were struck by how advanced the Romans as a society were. I was especially impressed by the paved roads, the frescoes and mosaics.  There is such a sense of people having lived there and of a town just waiting for its people to return that it leaves one heavyhearted.

Relief of an African Elephant used in battle, Roman A.D. 79-96 

Remnants of a mosaic from a Roman villa.
Religion was important in Roman society and there are many artefacts originating from household shrines in the museum.  I particularly like this statuette of a bull (below) meant as an offering, probably to Jupiter, who often took this form in mythology. Offerings were made daily to secure protection for the family.
Roman, from Pompeii, 100 B.C. - A.D. 79

Incense burner.  Greek, from South Italy or Sicily, 400-300 B.C.  Traces of charring indicate this vessel was actually used in antiquity.

Asclepius and Hygieia, Roman, A.D. 100 -150.  These miniatures were votive offerings or objects of devotion.

















































There are of course really big statues of some of the gods, who look like oversized persons of which some have very impressive physiques.
Roman, A.D. 100-200 

Venus is Pieter's favourite, while Hercules (below) is mine.
Roman, A.D. 100-200







































There are also items of jewellery and vessels of scented oil (something that used to be most precious)

The vessels in the middle are of Gallo-Roman origin, A.D. 70-100



This ensemble of jewellery probably belonged to a noblewoman of the Ptolemaic dynasty, rulers of Egypt from 323 B.C. to 30 B.C.  The pieces are beautifully worked showing superior craftmanship.












This gravestone shows a woman with her attendant, with the cropped hair of a slave, holding a hinged object looking like a wax writing tablet (no it cannot be a modern tablet!) or a jewelry box.  The woman must have been wealthy.  She is wearing bracelets like those in the box above.

Seeing a replica such as the Getty Villa makes Roman society seem even more impressive, but thankfully one no longer feels as if slaves and masters would somehow appear.

Having walked through the main building we sat down in the East Garden, a quiet place to escape from the heat, now like then.






The theatrical masks on the wall fountain are like those often used for decoration in Roman art in the first century A.D.







From here we went to the largest garden, once again really impressive.


The three of us, tired but happy having had a wonderful day.  Our bags with purchases from the gift shop are at our feet.
Finally, having had but this one day, we made our way back to the parking garage.






Tuesday 13 January 2015

Tinsel Town

A Twilight Zone: Hollywood


The drive to Los Angeles from San Diego already prepared us for what initially proved to be a rather drab city.  Hollywood is a district in central Los Angeles.  On the face of it this is just another city with a fairly busy commercial centre.  No fairy would choose this place for its looks.



Notice the signs!










The cars reminded us we were amongst the rich and the famous.
On Thanksgiving we were kindly invited to dinner by acquaintances, professors at the University of California.  They only expected us in the afternoon so we still had a bit of time for sightseeing.  Chris and I wanted to see the Hollywood sign. According to the Internet, residents do not exactly welcome the throngs of tourists who all want to drive and climb all the way to the sign. Pieter suggested we go to the Griffith Observatory situated in Griffith Park from where one can clearly see the sign.

Griffith Observatory

Downtown Los Angeles


Getting closer to the Hollywood sign
This was a brilliant idea as Griffith Observatory commands a view of the Los Angeles Basin with Downtown Los Angeles to the southeast and the Pacific Ocean to the southwest not to mention Hollywood to the south.  It is a popular tourist attraction with an extensive array of space and science-related displays - on Thanksgiving though, it was closed.




People parked in droves at the bottom of the hill and then hiked to the top. It was a hot day, we basked in the brilliant sunshine and it was dusty.  Los Angeles is arid and Hollywood Mountain is not far removed from a sand dune which partly explains why climbing to the Hollywood sign is not a good idea - it dislodges more of the sand.  We drove all the way up fearing that we might not find any parking, but we were still fairly early and could park not too far from the Observatory.


Nothing could stifle our excitement at seeing the Hollywood sign from quite close.  Is it not amazing how imagination and storytelling changed this place from not very inspiring to the stuff of dreams? Standing there in the heat and dust should not have been wonderful at all - but it was!















Pieter Botha and Chris de Wet
The next day we were to move on to Buellton in the Santa Ynez valley to be closer to the Santa Barbara campus of the University of California.  Before going, Chris asked about the Walk of Fame and we decided, having driven past Hollywood Boulevard the day before, that we could make a stop there first.  We had the same experience as with the Hollywood sign.  We parked in front of a construction site in a very unremarkable city environment.  The Walk of Fame itself is nothing but the pavements of a city street with blocks containing stars with the names of celebrities on them. Still, it felt as if we had personally met Tim Rice and the astronauts that had landed on the moon, such is the magic of the place.

A very ordinary street














The Walk of Fame

Stars from real life as well as films
Sir Tim Rice's star




















One is reminded that countless films and television series are filmed in Los Angeles.  If you look them up they are listed in alphabetical order - they are so many.  Just looking at films and series with a Los Angeles setting one remembers The A-Team, Baywatch, The Big Bang Theory, The Bold and the Beautiful, Charlie's Angels, The Fresh Prince of Bell-Air, Hannah Montana, MacGyver, need I go on? The city of angels certainly provides us with a lot of joy and many hours of relaxation and inspiration.  The name is not such a misnomer after all.
A lovely old theatre in Hollywood

Sunday 11 January 2015

Santa Monica, California

Days in Los Angeles

Towards the end of November 2014 we headed from San Diego towards Los Angeles in a car we had hired from Hertz.  For once we were going in the more popular direction towards more usual touristy sights. Thrilling though it was traffic volumes were high and the different use of signs and the intricate routes made this a fairly challenging drive.  One gets to see a bit of the landscape, but really there is not much to rave about.  Still, as we were three, driving there made sense.

Our trusty steed.














Santa Monica motel
Part of the greater metropolitan area of Los Angeles are Santa Monica, Hollywood and Malibu. We were to spend two nights in the Santa Monica Motel.  We headed for the beach right away.  It is a really lovely, huge, sandy beach with lots of  people spending time there, be it to play in the sand, cycle, jog, walk, swim or to work out.  There is apparatus on the beach to swing on and attractive young men were making good use of it.

Santa Monica beach
















We got to the famous Santa Monica pier towards sunset.  That place certainly has a lot of atmosphere.  There were several buskers whose music lent magic to a very pleasant evening stroll.

An amusement park on the beach






































On our way back to the motel we walked past a building of which part of the vertical wall is overgrown with plants - truly lovely.


Sunday 4 January 2015

Aircraft carrier in San Diego

Sailing, Flying, Walking

To swoop and circle through the air in an old-fashioned biplane or an F-8 fighter plane might be something I will never experience, but just walking between the planes on the historic aircraft carrier museum in San Diego comes very close.  This is living indeed.

Pieter and I with the USS Midway in the background.
We spotted the aircraft carrier, the USS Midway, on our very first day in San Diego.  We wanted to get onto the deck and start exploring right away, but saved this pleasure for a day when we would be less jetlagged.  This is after all a once in a lifetime opportunity. On our last day before departing to Los Angeles we made a day of it.  We were told to expect to spend three hours but found that four hours was just not long enough.


The aircraft carrier is a very popular tourist attraction, so there is a bit of a queue to get on board. Once on board one enters the hangar deck and is given an audio guide which is quite informative. What one gets to explore are four decks plus the captain's bridge on the Island Superstructure  The USS Midway is a floating city at sea with galleys, officers' rooms (CAG spaces), dining halls, recreational rooms, sleeping quarters, the engine room, machine and metal shops, the brig, a laundry room, a small shop, the sick bay, a post office, a chapel and 27 restored aircraft.

An F4F Wildcat Fighter on the hangar deck.
Imagine these prices!

Bed with storage space for enlisted men.

Just look at that anchor cable!

These quarters are for those a bit higher up in the ranks.

It is a big ship, but man it is still cramped.

A brig is a necessity.















































































The Chapel
One learns that the Midway was one of  America's longest-serving aircraft - from World War II to Operation Desert Storm. The Midway used to be powered by coal which meant several soldiers spent their time on board in very hot rooms and in very distressing circumstances.  It is mentioned several times that the soldiers manning the ship were of an average age of just nineteen.  These young men worked extremely hard with very little rest.


The 1.6 hectare flight deck - it is big - commands a 360 degree panoramic view of downtown San Diego.  There are many meticulously restored aircraft on this deck (a number of aircraft are also to be found on the hangar deck, e.g. the F4U Corsair and the A-4 Shyhawk).  There are, amongst others, the F-14 Tomcat, the F-4 Phantom II, the F9F Panther and an S-3 Viking.

San Diego from the deck of the USS Midway
F14 Tomcat

The Tomcat from a different angle.
































The F4 Phantom
What one learns is that aircraft did not use the entire flight deck for landing, but less than a quarter of its length.  An aircraft had to catch a wire on deck in order to land.  All this is explained by a docent, usually a veteran pilot or marine.  A pilot only had tiny rows of lights to guide him as to where to land.  Taking off was even more of a marvel. The aircraft was propelled forward by a steam catapult for which a correct estimate of its weight was essential.  A speed of 240 km/h in 80 metres was reached.  Before takeoff all weapons had to be made live - the safeties were removed to facilitate instant firing.  All this required an intricate system of hand signals as there was just too much noise for verbal communication.

Landing explained.

Catching the cable.

Taking off seen from above.


















































Taking off explained.















The Island Superstructure
About three hours in, we sat down in the outdoor café for a cup of tea.

Pieter and Chris having a cuppa.

















Homecoming